“Aesthetically it is perfect,” wrote the novelist Henry Miller, describing the “immaculate” port town of Hydra. From Miller to Jeff Koons, generations of creative types have followed the call: catching their first glimpse of the jaw-dropping splendour of the amphitheatrical port town as the boat turns in from its choppy crossing; traversing the indigo depths between bobbing caiques to alight on the quay among the patiently waiting donkeys, the island’s only form of transport beyond one’s own two legs; clip-clopping along a cobbled alley between rows of mother-of-pearl-hued houses to the cool courtyard of some hushed neoclassical mansion, or winding along the coastline to a cliff-hanging bar inviting leaps into the crystal seas beneath, and taking up pen and notepad, brush and easel in an attempt to capture some essence of this peerless isle.