Some 170 years later, de Bernieres set his novel Captain Corelli’s Mandolin on the island, catapulting it to fame with the arrival of Hollywood stars to create a silver-screen version. You certainly don’t have to be a romantic poet or bestselling author to appreciate the aesthetic allure of this rugged Ionian isle: the jaw-dropping perfection of Myrtos beach, unfailingly rated among the world’s most beautiful; the luminous allure of underground Melissani lake; the paintbox-hued houses gathered around the waterfront at Fiskardo (the only village to escape the island’s massive earthquake in 1953); the picture-perfect promontory of Assos with its Venetian castle; and the wild ponies on fir-covered Mount Aenos, at an altitude of 1,628m, the highest in the Ionian archipelago.